A Benjamin Button kind of winery! Bodegas Tradicion, despite its name, is one of the youngest wineries in Jerez, created in 1998. They purchased wines (botas and soleras) from Osborne, Bobadilla, Croft, Domecq and Sandeman and now they own around 1,000. They kind of started the other way round, selling only VORS (and one VOS), and working their way towards younger wines to feed their soleras. The wines are in charge of Jose Maria Quiros, who was winemaker at Agustin Blazquez and later at Domecq and has been a consultant for Alvear in Montilla-Moriles for 15 years. His aim is to preserve traditions and keep the wines as pure and true to their style as possible, and they come through as clean, elegant, precise, well-defined, focused, true to their type and indeed traditional. All wines have a hand-written lot number and year on the label. The NV Tradicion VOS Cream is a blend ofvery old Oloroso wine with some young Pedro Ximenez. The result is a delicately sweet wine, with powerful nose reminiscent of a Palo Cortado, with enough pungency and acidity to hide the sugar. An incredible wine for dessert, or even to accompany a rich, complicated meal.