This wine is made from 100% Tintilla, also known as Graciano. Traditionally, Cadiz is known for the sweet Tintilla de Rota dessert wine, but not as much for still (dry) wines. Meanwhile, in other parts of Spain, especially Rioja, Graciano is often primarily used as a blending grape.
These grapes are farmed 100% organically, and the wine is aged in a combination of large cement and oak vats in addition to small barrels of 225 liters. The vineyard's soil is Albariza, a chalky, well-drained, limestone-rich growing medium. Similar limestone soils produce some of the world's finest wines, so it should prove exciting to follow the development of Vara Y Pulgar as it ages in cellar.
The wine is hauntingly good. A dark, brooding purple color, the wine gives aromas of berry, black olive, licorice, and bittersweet chocolate. On the palate, the wine has a medium body, with an almost crystalline litheness in texture. The central flavor characteristics are blackberry, raspberry, and plum, but then there are savory flashes of leather, olive, tobacco, white pepper, and bay leaf, all on a frame of wet granite. The finish is long and memorable.