This is only the third vintage of the Old Mountain Molino Real from Telmo Rodriguez. Only one 225 L barrel of this is produced. The Moscatel ages in the barrel for years before being bottled and it has incredible sweetness, but also incredible acidity that keeps it in balance. A sip of this lasts for minutes.
"I retasted the 2009 Molino Real Old Mountain, the special
bottling of their sweet Moscatel they do after seven years in barrique. They
have only sold the 2005, and they bottled some experiments they did in 1997.
So, I had the chance to taste all three bottlings, plus bottled and potential
versions of the 2010, 2012 and 2013, of which the 2010 felt like the one with
more balance and clout. This 2009 started very volatile —the wines do have high
volatility —and the sensation is very noticeable when you pop and pour it, but
it seems to diminish in the glass. The 2005 was also volatile, but the 1997 was
completely different and had savory notes of smoked and cured meat intermixed
with candied orange peel and the Chilean spice mix merken that has a smoky
twist. This comes from two hectares of vines that fill one 225-liter barrel.
This has a higher concentration of sugar, and time in barrel further
concentrates everything. The wine should be eternal. This is very similar to
what I saw in December 2017 when I last tasted it, and the wine hasn't moved
much." 97 points Luis Gutierrez Wine Advocate